A moment of craziness

The other day I wanted to take a quick trip to Cameron. Got in the car and punched in Bharat and the GPS came up with a "Ulu Geroh to Bharat Tea Plantation" point. Without thinking much I just followed it blindly.

Reaching the normal Simpang Pulai - Cameron Highlands exit the GPS said to continue further instead of turning in. Since I was curious I decided to follow it (without checking my destination point again). Took me into the heart of Gopeng and had me veered on into Kg Sungei Itek.

Then the roads got narrower and narrower and bumpier.... perhaps a sprinkle of craziness and stupidity was in the air. Crossed a wooden/metal bridge (see picture above) and the trail leads deeper into the hearts of the a palm oil estate passing by Adeline's Place and Riverbug.

I think I did another 15 minutes before finally giving up in the palm oil estate roads. The trails are starting to look really bad and it would be disastrous to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no backup to tow me if i got stuck.

So it was about 30 minutes of craziness before I finally backtracked the GPS trail and headed back into civilization. Had any of my friends and family been in the car with me, I probably would have not made it past the bridge. haha...

Note:

Navigation by Garmin Nuvi 200 with MalsingMap 3.2 Gold

Fuel Consumption Improvements

Its been a couple of weeks since the tyre change. So far I've done about 3 refuels and mileage has gone up to between 8-9km/litres. And this is for town driving only. I wonder what highway would feel like will it be the 11.xkm/litres or better?

I can only guess that this improvement is due to the fact all tyres have the same thread run ins. Compared to previously the front left was less than the right.

Oil Change and Tyres

In the last few weeks, went for an oil change. Decided to go back to the standard mineral oil. The semi-synthetic Magnatec costs about RM90 changing to the standard mineral saved more or less RM20 as I opted to use the drum type. They pumped 3.9 liters of the Castrol GTX which cost RM66. No doubt running mineral the engine feels a little bit heavy especially when you floor it but for day to day traffic jam use it doesn't really show. I'm thinking of Idemitsu mineral for the next round. Maybe I could get the bottled one out at the spare parts shops for cheaper. ^_^

Finally got rid of those Dunlop RV70. Got myself a nice set of Yokohama Geolander G044 for RM290 a piece. I should have done this earlier. The new rubber is so smooth and quiet on the road. Also there is this 'imaginary' steering pull during braking that seems to have disappear after the change. I suspected pull as the front tyres have uneven wear on both sides. Now that all the tyres are nice and even, I wonder if fuel consumption will improve ?

Drafting aka Slipstreaming

Just back from another 5 state crossing this holiday season. Traffic on the highway was the usual. During the drive back I recalled something I read and discussed with a few friends while we were playing a NASCAR game. Drafting or also known as slipstreaming.

Wikipedia's definition:-

Drafting or slipstreaming is a technique where two vehicles or objects align in a close group reducing the overall effect of drag due to exploiting the lead object's slipstream. Especially when high speeds are involved, drafting can significantly reduce the echelon's average energy expenditure required to maintain a certain speed and can also slightly reduce the energy expenditure of the lead vehicle or object.

What was interesting was I found Mythbuster had an episode trying to confirm or debunk whether drafting could actually save fuel. Well pardon me for not having Astro at home. Not everyone is working hard trying to make Ananda Krishnan rich =P.

WARNING

The following knowledge is dangerous use wisely !!

They had a small-scale test in a wind tunnel that yielded the following results.

• 7 car lengths: 21% drag reduction
• 10ft: 60%
• 6ft: 80%
• 2ft: 93%

A full-scale test with a Cascadia truck

• 55mph control: 32mpg
• 100ft: 35.5mpg, 11% improvement
• 50ft: 38.5mpg, 20%
• 20ft: 40.5mpg, 27%
• 10ft: 44.5mpg, 39%
• 2ft: 41mpg, 29%

Here's a video of the bicycle test drafting the big rig.

Truth is there is no way we can validate these data ourselves unless we know some truckers or bus owners that are willing to spare some idle time trying to prove this. Looking at the data if we were to do this on our roads, I would probably follow a bus or a truck at least 3 cars away and if it can maintain a constant speed. Driving behind these things scare me when I can't see what is in front. Then there are also dangers of cross wind.

Looking at the way people drive on our roads we will have a problem drafting behind a big vehicle due to the following vehicle.

1. Existence of people that drive too slowly on the highways.
2. Truck or bus drivers maintain erratic speed
3. With so much power on the X why hold back your foot =P

Leave a comment if you have a personal experience on drafting.

Shell RON 95 Available Nationwide

Looks like I'm going to get myself some RON95 to test soon :)

Motortrader.com.my posted this latest update about Shell's RON 95 availability.

Replace: Crank Sensor

The Problem: Engine Cut while Idling

Had the crank sensor replaced today for a piece of mind. The frequency of the car having an engine cut during idle has been increasing. Went ahead with the change. Cost me RM400 inclusive of labour at Tan Chong. Ouch....

Right before they replaced the sensor, I made them pull a diagnostic first. As usual - no fault detected at all.

Here are the dates where the engine cut during idle happened.

23-06-2009 - Day
03-08-2009 - Day

16-08-2009 - Day

20-08-2009 - Night
25-08-2009 - Evening

Now I'm going to pray hard that the problem will go away.

-------------------
Update 12/12/12 - Didn't realize it has been so long. I have no problem since I replaced the crank sensor. Its been like 3 years since. 
------------------

---------------------------------------------------------
If you find  this information helpful please support me via any of the ads on this page. Thank you.
---------------------------------------------------------

Gluk - Final Episode

After whole day at TCEAS, I believe I can finally close the chapter on Gluk. Yay!!

Who was the culprit? The stabilizer bar bushings. Off all things. Who would have thought 2 pieces of rubber could have caused so much headaches.

So how much did this part cost ? RM30 a piece. TCEAS apparently have RM30 listed as the price as well. Unfortunately they did not have stock so I had to go visit my friendly neighbourhood spare part shop Double Champion.

Installation took a little more than 30 minutes as they had to dislodge the tie rod ends to access the stabilizer bushing nuts.

I will be writing another piece later on as a post mortem for gluk. Stay tuned!

___________________

Well the stabilizer bushings did not take a whole day, today I made an appointment with TCEAS's chief technical to troubleshot pop noise while going through bumps and the gluk noise.

There were a few test drives involved, removing the left strut and installing it back. We found the right inner tie rod faulty and that had to be replaced. TCEAS pricing puts it at RM225 after a 10% discount and another RM45 for labour. I still think TCEAS parts pricing is cut throat. They comfort you with a 90 days warranty.. bah...

Anyway the strut was removed and disassembled to look for problems. None could be seen visually. The test drive after it was refitted.... no more noise. At least for the time being. Going to monitor this.

I'm guessing its due to this little part. See picture below. Assembly could have been shot previously.

One interesting bit observed during testing was the difference between damping for Tan Chong OEM absorbers and Tokico Japan absorbers. It took a lot of effort to press down the shaft for the Tokico Japan ones. The Tan Chong OEM just goes up and down easily.

• T30 Absorber: Tokico Japan - Hard
• T30 Absorber: ETCM OEM - Soft

96000km Plug Replacement.

The Problem: Engine Cut while Idling

This wasn't scheduled change, just that the car has been stalling at red lights a couple of times. One was the suspect was bad plugs. So after it stalled again during lunch i decided to go get my self some new spark plugs.A pack of 4 Denso Iridium plugs which cost me RM170.

First time I'm changing plugs myself. When I removed the coil I found the it so have some sticky residue on the rubber. No clue what it was. Somehow I don't think you are suppose to find stuff in that chamber. Found this in chamber 1 and chamber 3.

The existing plugs have about 16,000km on them. Are they suppose to look like this?

So far no problem running after replacement. Now to monitor if the truck stalls again at the lights.

JDM Aerokits - Do they work?

Did you ever wonder if those aerokits stuff like bumper carnards, splitters, rear wing and diffusers actually work ? I wonder at times as well. I had always believe that one will see the improvements by these aerokits once you go fast enough. The question is how fast is fast enough for all these fancy bodykit add-on before they really work?

Below is a documentary by the Option magazine network on the Tsukuba Time Attack's Cyber Evo. They created an experiment to show the amount of downforce and how much these aerokits improved it. There is a comparison at the end of the video showing the effects without the standard bumper and without the rear wing.

Air speed in their test was 25m/s (90km/h or 55.9mph).

What say you after watching this?

3rd Generation Prius in Malaysia - RM175000

Zerotohundred carried the article about the launch of the 3rd Generation Toyota Prius in Malaysia. It is selling for RM175,000. Yes that is how much they are selling it. It is even more expensive than the Toyota Camry or the Honda Civic Hybrid which is priced at RM129,980.

A check at Toyota's website have them list the price for the 3rd generation Prius as "estimated price list" at RM175,000. Is there something else that we should know?

Even Chips@Motortrader and PaulTan was way off with their estimate pricing when they tested the car in Japan.

I guess its going to be a costly affair for us normal Malaysian to drive an eco friendly vehicle until the government decides to do something about it. Who knows if that day will ever come.

Clay Bar

Recent viral browsing brought me to read up about claying. What the heck is claying? Claying with a clay bar. Ok I have to admit that I'm not a detailing freak but I always like a nice shinny finish to my ride. I love some good elbow grease but detailing the whole car by myself is just to long. (I'm just plain lazy at times)

Back to claybars and claying. Here is what WikiAnswers says to the question - What is a clay bar?.

I would define it as below.

Clay bars - putty/dough like material that can be shaped and moulded. The material has ability to remove surface contaminant.

Many people have written guides and suggestion on detailing with the clay bar but I find this clay bar detailing guide the best so far. Make sure you read through the clay bar detailing guide before you start claying your vehicle.

Here's a nice video guide on using the clay bar.

What I need next is to get my hands onto some real clay bars!!

---------------------------------------------------------
If you find this information helpful please support me through the ads on the page. thank you.
---------------------------------------------------------

RON95 and My X-Trail

For my X-Trail, I've used both RON92 and RON97. They both work fine without any issues. Since the new RON95 sits in between there is definitely no problem. The sad part is I'd have to say goodbye to the cheaper RON92 fuel. It was nice knowing you. Alas.. au revoir!

RON92 works fine with X-Trail, my only beef with it is that I get slightly lower mileage. My numbers shows that over time there was no significant dollars and cents saved using RON92 compared to using RON97. Then again my data could be wrong.

Don't know why so many folks were afraid to use RON92. It says very well in our user manual the X will only require a minimum of RON91. Chip's RON List in Motortrader also recently got updated with RON data from Nissan. I was shocked ETCM said the X was not compatible to RON92.

Earlier on, one of the reasons I heard for this was that ETCM did had always played the safe side of things. Less issues with warranty.

Take away notes from this post for those still having doubts on RON95 :-

X-Trail works with RON95 !!!!!

Now go worry about something else :)

Shell RON95 - Available @Alisha Station along Federal Highway Batu 3 (Klang bound).

KUALA LUMPUR, TUES:

SHELL Malaysia Trading Sdn Bhd announced today that its Shell Unleaded 95 fuel is now available at the Alisha Station along Federal Highway Batu 3 (Klang bound).

In a statement, Shell said the fuel will be available at all of its stations nationwide by September this year in compliance with government's directive to introduce the RON95 fuel to the market.

"We are pleased to offer our customers the opportunity to try our Shell Unleaded 95 fuel with fuel economy formula at this site," said the company's managing director Datuk Mohzani Abdul Wahab.

"Our customers can be assured that this new fuel continues to deliver on Shell's fuel quality promise and complements our aspiration of helping our customers get the most out of every drop," he said.

Shell also said that to address the need for fuel efficiency, tips are available at the http://everydrop.shell.com.my website to help motorists save up to 10 percent in fuel consumption.
"Shell will continue to work to educate drivers on ways to optimize their fuel consumption, and very soon we will be addressing RON95 public awareness as well," Mohzani said. - Bernama

Latio vs Wira

A friend's Nissan Latio got got a head on collision on its side with a Proton Wira. This unfortunate incident happened while making a turn at a traffic light. The Latio engine was still running after the incident but the Wira totally stalled. The Wira suffered damages to the bonnet, bumper and the front part of the chassis. I didn't manage to get any shots of the damaged Wira. We shall see if i get to visit the workshop. :)

The Latio suffered door damages only. Not sure if the pillars have issue that will need further inspection. According to the Latio's driver, he felt nothing more than a thud during the impact and only realised the severity of the damage when he came out to inspect it. Thankfully there were no one in the passenger seats. I can't imagine what would have happened.

Looking at the car, these thoughts come to mind

• What is the limit of these side impact bars?
• There were no skid marks from the wira showing signs or it braking. How fast was it going? Did the driver panic or was he looking else where
• Does this prove Nissan's claim for the Latio's 6-Star JNCAP rating?

I'm just glad no one got hurt.

Ignition Timing

A couple of weeks back, the X was experiencing really bad vibrations in traffic jams. I stopped by the Sungai Pinang SC and they diagnosed it to a dirty throttle body. How? The foreman said he couldn't get the a reading and can't update the computer diagnostic tool.

I had it cleaned and that cost me RM80. He also reset my ignition timing back to 16 BTDC.

Now this is the interesting part. So far I've done about 3-4 tanks with the new ignition timing.

On highways, with 16BTDC I'm getting back the high 11.x km/liters in fuel economy.

However the funny part was, mileage driving in town (Penang) has dropped back to below 7km/liters. What is going on?

Before this with 18BTDC highway mileage is between 10-11km/liters and town driving hovers 7-9km/liters.

I don't have conclusive data yet since this is only the 2nd tank of fuel driving in town.

From my reading, N16 users did say advancing the ignition timing did save fuel.

At the moment, I have the following conclusion for tweaking the ignition timing.

Increasing the ignition timing saves fuel when you do more stop-go type of driving involving 0-2500rpm. The increase in ignition timing brings forward the power curve and torque curve. I still can't explain why it uses more fuel cruising at 2800-3000rpm. Maybe more power = more fuel could be use here.

I'll be heading back to reset the ignition timing back to 18BTDC after a few more tanks of fuel.

Rebates for direct insurance

The Star ran an article saying come July 1st, car owners that buy motor insurance directly from the insurance companies would qualify for a 5% rebate. They will get a 10% rebate when they renew it for the second year.

Full news here

Sounds good if you ask me. More discounts on top of the existing one. However as with this country, don't keep your hopes up until you really see it being implemented. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

Cabin Air Filter

As everyone already know, The X in Malaysia is sold without the cabin filter. Only those good fellows in ETCM would know why on earth did they take out such an important piece of equipment.

Maybe half of them fail to realize most of us have to endure driving behind lots of bas kilang, town busses and trucks that spew a "healthy" dose of black smoke that thick enough to create a facial mask for you. I pity the motorcycle riders. I've been there and I know how it feels.

Anyway, today's replacement is Bosch Aeristo a cabin filter with active charcoal elements for the X-trail. T30. Bought it at WELING Trading in Butterworth for RM67. Can't find it anywhere else in Penang. Though I've to check at my new regular shop as I've purchased this before I found Double Champion.

Removing the old OEM filter i bought (it actually cost more to buy this OEM.. maybe i got suckered? Paid RM80)

This is what the dirty filter looked like. You can see the dark sections. Is my cabin air really that bad?? One really wonders.

Here's a shot from the top. Leaves?? where did that come from?

One thing to note when installing the Bosch filter is that there is an arrow pointing the direction of the air flow. It should be pointing downwards. If you are doubtful, grab a tiny piece of plastic enough and see which way the air flows in the cabin air filter box.

Inner Tie Rod Socket Replaced

I had the replacement job done at Kedai Tayar and Bateri Relau. It was simple enough.

1. Removed the wheel
2. Dislodge the tie-rod ends
3. Remove clips securing the boot cover(aka bellows)
4. Remove the boot cover
5. Used this clau like device to unscrew the tie-rod
6. Insert replacement and screw back
7. Realign wheels...

Unfortunately.. it was still going pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop pop after that... :( bummer

Thinking back, the sound only started happening after the shocks were replaced. Could there have been some issues with the installation? hmmm......

Looks like I'm going to be trying to figure out this sound next... pop!!

The new inner tie rod ends (RM250)

The old one - Looks like there are rust deposits on it.

Steering vibration

This one is a heads up for guys traveling into Ipoh from the north. If you enter town via Kuala Kangsar Road searching for a tyre shop, please stay away from the shop with that big Falken sign. The shops's name is Weng Cheong. I've found a references where people say this shop is a total shark. I concur. Passing through last weekend, I thought i get a quick balancing job as my steering was vibrating badly past 100kmh. The guy there tried to rip me off by telling me all my rims are warped and should be pressed back into shape. Wanted to charge me RM60 per 15" rims (RM80 for 16" above). Told him I was in rush for time and ask him to just continue with balancing instead. Back on the highway.. the steering was still vibrating. When i reached my hometown in Kuantan, I went to visit a shop that my dad frequented. Was told there were no issues with the rims. Its just the problem with the RV70 not seated properly on the rims. Tyres reseated and rebalanced. Test drive - No more steering vibration. I'm impressed with the sifu there. Though the shop looked like run down but the man's got skills.

They shops name is OK Tyre by the way. Its in Padang Lallang, Kuantan.

If you happen to stop by just mention the folks from Kuantan Engineering driving the X recommended you to stop by.

I shall post some related graphics later.

Pop Goes the Weasel

Here I thought my troubles were over after rectifying the gluk sound another mysterious sound came up. Pop pop pop pop!!! Arrrgh!! >_<

Initially it only appeared when I hit a dip in the road turning to the right.

Off I go to Tan Chong in Prai to see if they would want to entertain me. To be honest, I'm utterly frustrated given the run around by the 2 SC's in Penang island. So what better way to spend your Saturdays right?

Drove into the service center around 2.45pm. Walked into the reception area and was greeted by Mr Low. Told him I needed an opinion on some troubling sound and noises I've been having and that I've not been getting anywhere with the SC's on the island. As busy as every one was, he arranged an experienced foreman, Mr Ganesan to perform a test drive to determine the root cause.

I told Ganesan about the steering freeplay and the pop sound when i hit a dip taking turns and off we went finding bumps to attack.

Came back to the SC and he dismantled my left wheel and decoupled the tie rod after performing some test on both  the front and back wheels. He was pretty sure it was the tie rod. After setting the tie rod loose, he confirmed it was the tie rod. There was too much free play.

Unfortunately they didn't have replacement parts at hand. This means I'll have to go back to get this done. Darn. He advised me to change both the tie rods at one go and it could be done "anywhere". Also mentioned the Akimono brake pads from Singapore have very nice grip. *hint* *hint*

They did not charge me diagnosis. I'm not sure I should be happy though since now I have to replace the tie rods... uuugh... more money...

Found some inner tie rod replacement guides just to get a feel what would happen.

1. IF IT JAMS - Replacing the Inner Tie Rod (with YouTube video)
2. Removal of Inner Tie Rod - Saturn S (YouTube Video

Troubleshooting Guide

1. Steering Systems Problem ( Rack&Pinion/Linkages/Tie Rods)

Gluk: LCA Bush Revisited

I almost thought the issue with the gluk was over until they jacked up my car during an oil change last weekend. To my surprise, I found the large lower arm bush cracked even worse than before. Got me thinking, what the heck was wrong. 

Check out those cracks... its worse when its on the car.

Something doesn't feel right and I started to suspect something was a miss with the previous LCA bush replacement earlier. Acting on a hunch i decided to replace both the arms. Bought the replacements for left and right @RM600 each. Now that really cost an arm (no pun intended hehe)

Notice anything yet?

Looking at the new arms.. I immediately suspected something when I first saw the orientation of the connecting piece to the body. The bushes has orientation marks on them!! Now I just need to confirm the suspision when I have the LCA arms on the X removed.

True enough to my suspicion. The previous LCA bush installation did not follow the orientation markers. Arrgh!! Damn the Chang Soon foreman and their pressing workshop !! So a word of advice to all that plans to replace their LCA bushes to save money. Please check the bush press to make sure the orientation markers are correct. Else you'd be screwed to replace them again.

The replacement job was done at Kedai Tayar and Bateri Relau (Bridgestone). Charged me RM20 for replacing the arms.

Total damage RM1200 + RM40 for labour + RM24 to realign the wheels.

Driving around, the steering definitely feels more "stiff" and the road harshness don't feel that hard anymore.

---------------------------------------------------------
If you find this information helpful please support me via any of the ads on this page. Thank you.
---------------------------------------------------------

Replacement: Rod-Stabilizer / Rod A-Connecting

The latest attempt to resolve the Gluk. Today's hangout place after lunch is a big Bridgestone tyre shop in Relau. Can't miss it.

This is the original left absorber link after being removed

Drove into the shop and gave them an overview on the gluk. The foreman took the car for a test drive then came back and had his helpers removed the left front wheel. After that he had what he termed the absorber link removed. Reattached the wheel and tested the car again. Claims the sound was no more. I took a go at it and yes its true enough the gluk disappeared without the absorber link.

The new replacement unit

Same part but different part number and description

Rod-Stabilizer or Rod A-Connecting ? Should I be worried?

Left Side

Right Side

Replacement cost me RM135 x 2 = RM270 in total.

Drove away skeptical whether was it really fixed. I still think its there but then again, today I have a blocked nose and slight fever so I could be hearing things. The usual 1 week adjustment period test will be applied.

Praying hard this will solve the problem...

Gluk currently leads by 3-0

It is sad to say, all the repairs to date has yet to resolve this problem. I could feel that it much less obvious now thanks to the  new engine mounts but the gluk gluk gluk sound is still there.

The latest thing i notice is that the alignment is slightly off. :-?

Just had the alignment done right before getting the engine mounts changed. A surprising turn of events was I got a call from TC. They called to check if the car was ok.. I told them the problem was still there and they offered to have me bring the car in for further diagnosis. 

??!!??!?? 

Why so helpful all of a sudden? They almost refuse to entertain me earlier, I had to ask the right questions and be in the workshop to check on the things myself when the car was sent in for other jobs.... hmmmm.....

Anyway back to the problem at hand. Here are some new observations. As bumps are a plenty in the office, i realised these :-

1. Taking bumps head on fast or slow does not yield that gluk sound
2. Taking on bumps slowly while turning will yield the sound. (This is when one tyre moves up first then followed by the tyre from the other side.

I think I'm closer to solving this. Just hope the parts that I replaced recently don't get damage again with problem at hand.

The Gluk-Gluk Strikes Back !!

Damn ! The Gluk-Gluk is still there. What on earth is causing it??!!?!??!!! Arrrgh!!!

I was at Queensbay Mall for lunch. Parked the car at the open air carpark. The place was filled with pot holes and bumps. Totally uneven terrain. Was driving  S L O W L Y to navigate the best path out and then it happened. Gluk... Gluk.... Gluk.... when i passed moved over bumps and potholes that made the car ride up one side after another... 

My observation so far :-

1. No more gluk gluk sound when driving on tar road or in the apartment compound (maybe its unnoticable?)
2. Gluk sound damn obvious when driving in VERY uneven terrain
3. The vehicle feels more responsive. Less idle time between throttling and the car doing something (maybe its just my butt?)
4. Fuel gauge seems to be moving slower than before (but that could be the weather and the highway travels...hmm..)

What else could be broken?

1. Links?
2. Stabilizer bar?
3. Connecting Rods?
4. Ball Joint?

I am lost at this point. Need to go back and do more research and a better mechanic to help me diagnose this. 

Out comes the old engine mountings

Finally got the my X-trail back at 2pm. The car spent 1.5 days at Tan Chong. It was ready in the car park but no one called me >_< . Luckily I decided to stop over after lunch. Caught them unprepared. Documents were not ready. 

They included 2 "missing" clips for my air filter intake which so happen to be secured properly by cable tie when I sent the car in. They wanted to charge me RM4.50 for each of those clip when I already had a bag of those under the arm rest. I had them take it out and replaced it with my own on the spot. =P

Anyway back to the mountings and all the gluk gluk sound...

Here are the old ones. There are some serious cracks in each one of them. Luckily I purchased and had all four of the mountings replaced. I've marked the fault areas on the mounts. Please click on the  image for a better view of the mounting faults.

Rear mounting - Visible cracks.

Front mounting - Slight crack and material fatigue.

Left hand mounting - Visible cracks. 

Right hand mounting - Small cracks are starting to appear.

I am seriously wondering where on earth did the previous owner drag the X-trail through. This is a 2003 model. Its only been like 5 years. Maybe it was 5 years of neglect?

Anyway back to the topic of gluk.. Will this solve that annoying gluk-gluk sound thats been bothering me? I still can't tell through the preliminary tests. I'll probably conclude it after a week or so after the brain overcomes the euphoric phase of replacing a new part in the X-trail.

Fingers crossed everyone !!

Taukeh! Ori one ar?

A man walks into a spare part shop to buy some spare parts for his beloved Nissan.

Man: Boss! I want to buy this spare part. Got ar? (shows him a sample)

Shop Owner : This part ar... (looks at the part).. Got.. Got...

Man: How much ar?

Shop Owner: Which type you want?

Man: Got how many type?

Shop Owner:

Many lor... Count oso kenot finish..

Got ori one lar got fake one lar..

Tis one ori local one.. ori Tan Chong, tat one is ori local one but ciplak one har...

Man: Why u say ciplak one. Got Nissan sticker. Made in Japan some more.

Shop Owner: Well you know la.. Everyone want to do business ma.

Man: Wah Lau eh.... I don't want ciplak one. Susah later.

Shop Owner:

No worry one, the local one can use oso.. cheap cheap.. just quality so so nia.

Since u like tat ar.. i recommend you buy ori Japan one.

Japan one all good good one. Garantee no problem.

Tis one Ori Tan Chong Japan one..

Tis one Ori Japan but not Tan Chong one..

Man: Huh?

Shop Owner:

Dun worry.. all oso Nissan one.. ori one.. no problem.

Take Japan one sui sui lasting longer than local one

If part got problem you take come back. Settle for you.

Man: Wah... so many types.. pening d....